Nyhet publicerad den 2010-04-28
Ny sektor under utveckling på Örnberget.
A new sector, codename Candyland, is under development at Örnberget . Everyone can see it on the left side from the parking place under the mountain. Some 15m high and 7m wide rhombic piece of red granite. The main part is a steep slab, but there is also a side wall overhanging in the beginning.
The sector is actually not completely new. Until recently, it had only two old trad routes.
The crack on the left edge of the slab is called Skitdiedret (and not without a reason) the grade in the guidebook is 3+. It’s extremely dirty and seems completely uninteresting from the climbing point of view. No intention to clean it up.
The crack on the right side is called Nalle Puh, grade 5-. This is a very nice small trad route with very good protection. The plan is to keep it trad. Please respect this! After some clean up, a top anchor will be placed, where the crack ends up with a convenient belay station on a ledge at about 8m height . From there, it must be possible to traverse some 3m to the right toward the birch tree, and then continue with a much wider crack all the way to the top. This needs a substantial clean-up, but could become a nice and easy two pitch trad adventure in Häggsta style.
So far, one new route has been bolted up and climbed on the slab, Candyland, 15m with 8 bolts and top anchor. The grade is about 6b+, and one star quality is suggested.
One more route on the left side of the slab is under development, the anticipated grade is 6a+.
The final project is a short bolted route on the steep side wall, leading to the same anchor as Nalle Puh.
/Peter Yakubenko
Bra jobb! förr oss som inte är superstarka, eller vill ta med oss dom som inte är det så uppskattas lite fler lätta leder. /David Kleman
// anonym (2010-04-28 15.36)
Kalas!
Kanon Peter, tack!
// Peblin (2010-04-29 13.18)
Nalle Puh extension
Vet ej hur det ser ut där, men om fortsättningen ser bra ut, varför inte skippa ankaret efter 8 meter och gör en ankare efter andra delen? //Mike
// anonym (2010-05-4 17.24)
Nalle Puh extension
The extension would requre traversing some 3m to the right. I think that 8m vertical+3m traverse+another 8m vertical will make a rather poor one pitch climb. But it can be a good thing if climbed as two pitches. Apart from that, I have a small personal reason (more exactly, two or even three small personal reasons :-) to be able to fix top-rope climbing on Nalle Puh "original". /Peter Y
// anonym (2010-05-4 19.15)
more on Nalle Puh extension
This project requires some significant clean up = LOTS of work, so to say. Anyone who is interested to help with, and thus to be able to influnce the anchor positioning, to give a name to this extended route, even make a FA, is welcome! Just contact me. /Peter Y
// anonym (2010-05-4 19.30)
